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Under & Over Cabinet Lighting

Surfaces & Lighting

Under & Over Cabinet Lighting in Houston, TX

Even task light on the counter, a soft glow above the uppers and lit interiors, with every wire and driver hidden in the cabinetry.

Under and over cabinet lighting fixes the most common kitchen lighting problem: ceiling cans behind you cast your own shadow onto the cutting board. A continuous LED strip under the upper cabinets puts light right where you work. Above the uppers, an uplight washes the ceiling and makes the room feel taller. Ace Kustoms builds both into cabinetry, along with toe-kick and in-cabinet lighting.

The difference between a clean install and a messy one is in the woodwork. We recess LED channel into the cabinet bottom or hide it behind a light rail, drill wire paths through the box before finishing, and leave a ventilated spot for the driver where it can be reached later. No stick-on pucks with cords running down the backsplash.

We do this on new custom kitchen cabinets and on existing cabinets that are in good shape. The same approach works in bathrooms, butler's pantries, home bars, closets and display cabinets. Your licensed electrician handles the line-voltage connection and switch, and we coordinate the details ahead of time so the tile setter and electrician are not guessing where the wires and drivers need to land.

Why choose Ace Kustoms for under & over cabinet lighting

Shadow-free counters

A continuous strip mounted toward the front of the upper cabinet bottom lights the full counter depth, so chopping, reading recipes and wiping up are not done in your own shadow.

No visible wires or diodes

Channels are recessed or hidden behind a 3/4 to 1-1/2 inch light rail, and wires run through drilled cabinet sides and bottoms. From a seated or standing position you see light, not hardware.

Taller-feeling kitchens

Uplighting on top of the uppers bounces off the ceiling. In kitchens with an open gap above the cabinets, it turns dead space into a soft perimeter glow that helps 8 and 9-foot ceilings.

Nightlight-level toe kicks

Low LED strips in the toe kick let you walk to the fridge at night without turning on overheads. On a motion sensor or a separate dimmer, they double as a nightlight for kids and guests.

Lit glass and open shelving

In-cabinet lighting behind glass doors or under floating shelves shows off dishes, glassware and collections. Door-activated switches can turn on drawer, pantry and corner cabinet lights only when they are opened, then shut them off again.

Serviceable components

Drivers are placed in ventilated, reachable spots such as above a microwave cabinet or in a sink base side panel, so replacing one years from now does not mean pulling cabinets.

Styles, materials and options

LED tape in aluminum channel

Our default for under-cabinet task light. High-density tape in a recessed aluminum channel with a frosted diffuser gives an even line of light with no dots on glossy quartz or polished stone.

Puck lights

Round recessed or surface pucks spaced 12 to 18 inches apart. Good inside glass cabinets and over shelves, but under uppers they can leave scallops of light on the backsplash.

Over-cabinet uplight

LED tape set back on top of upper cabinets behind the crown molding or a small fascia board. It works best where there is 12 inches or more between the cabinet tops and the ceiling.

Toe-kick lighting

A strip mounted at the top of the toe-kick recess, aimed at the floor. Usually 2700K to 3000K warm white and on its own switch, sensor or a scene on a smart dimmer.

In-cabinet and drawer lighting

Vertical strips at the face frame, lit glass shelves or a strip under each shelf front. Drawer and pantry lights can use door-activated or motion switches with a short timeout.

Drivers, dimmers and controls

Low-voltage tape runs on a 12 or 24-volt driver sized with headroom. Your electrician pairs a dimmable driver with a compatible wall dimmer or smart switch for smooth dimming without flicker.

White kitchen with lit display shelves and a navy island
Modern kitchen with a gray island, bar stools and backlit slatted wall cabinets
Kitchen with red backlit open shelving and LED strip lighting

Our process

  1. Survey cabinets and power. We check cabinet construction, front rail depth, the gap above the uppers and where existing outlets and switches sit. On existing cabinets we confirm there is room to recess a channel.
  2. Choose light and layout. We go over color temperature, brightness and color rendering. Most kitchens look right at 3000K. You approve a plan showing strip runs, driver locations and switch or sensor positions.
  3. Prep the cabinetry. In the shop we route channels, add light rails and drill wire paths before finishing. On existing cabinets the crew does this on site with dust control and careful protection.
  4. Electrical and install. Your licensed electrician provides the power feed and switching. We mount channels, run low-voltage leads through the cabinets and land them at the driver, keeping splices accessible.
  5. Test, dim and tune. We test every run at full and low brightness, look for dots, flicker and color mismatches, then adjust diffusers or strip positions. You leave with notes on where each driver lives.

What affects the cost

  • Total linear feet of under-cabinet, over-cabinet and toe-kick runs sets most of the material and labor cost.
  • Recessed aluminum channel with diffusers costs more than surface tape but looks far cleaner and lasts longer.
  • Retrofitting existing cabinets takes more labor than building the channels in during new cabinet fabrication.
  • Multiple zones, smart dimmers and motion sensors add driver capacity, controls and electrician time.
  • Hard-to-reach power, such as a slab-floor island or no nearby outlet, can add significant electrical work.

For general planning, under-cabinet LED lighting in a typical Greater Houston kitchen often runs about $800 to $2,500 when installed with new cabinets, and $1,500 to $4,000 or more as a retrofit with toe-kick and over-cabinet zones. Electrical work may be priced separately. Your actual cost depends on run lengths, controls and access, so ask us for a written estimate.

Built for Houston conditions

Many Houston kitchens sit on slab foundations, so feeding power to a new island or a run of lower cabinets can mean trenching through concrete. We plan lighting routes through walls and upper cabinets first. LED drivers dislike heat, and a driver closed up above a microwave or next to a range can cook in summer, so we place them in ventilated compartments away from heat sources. Older 1950s to 1970s homes may have limited circuits in the kitchen, and your electrician may recommend a dedicated lighting circuit. In humid weather, aluminum channel and sealed cabinet edges keep tape adhesive from loosening.

Under & Over Cabinet Lighting FAQs

Should I choose LED tape or puck lights under my cabinets?
For task lighting under upper cabinets, LED tape in an aluminum channel gives continuous, even light with no scallops on the backsplash. Pucks work well inside glass-front cabinets, under floating shelves or where you want a spot of light. Most kitchens we light use tape under the uppers and pucks or vertical strips inside display cabinets.
Where do the drivers go?
Drivers go somewhere ventilated and reachable inside conditioned space. Common spots are the cabinet above the refrigerator, a sink base side panel or a dedicated compartment above a pantry cabinet. We avoid closed spaces next to ovens and microwaves, and we never bury a driver behind a fixed panel.
Can you add lighting to my existing cabinets?
Usually yes, if the upper cabinets have a recessed bottom or a front rail we can hide a channel behind. If the bottoms are flush, we can add a slim light rail molding. We look at your cabinet construction during the estimate visit and tell you what will look clean before you commit.
What color temperature is best for kitchen task lighting?
Most kitchens look right at 3000K, which is warm enough to match ceiling lights but crisp enough to judge food color. Some homeowners prefer 2700K for a cozier look or 3500K for a brighter feel. We recommend a high color rendering rating so wood, stone and food look natural.
Will the lights reflect on my quartz or granite countertop?
Bare diodes reflect as a row of dots on polished stone. A frosted diffuser and mounting the strip toward the front of the cabinet, aimed back toward the backsplash, prevents that. We test against your countertop sample or the installed counter before we finish.
Can the lights be on a dimmer or smart switch?
Yes. Your electrician pairs a dimmable driver with a compatible dimmer or smart switch, which avoids flicker and buzzing at low levels. Under-cabinet, over-cabinet and toe-kick zones can be on separate controls or grouped into scenes depending on your preference.

Helpful guides

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  • Built in our Houston shop, installed by our own crew

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